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Paul Tazewell on vision behind “Wicked” costume transformation and telling stories through clothing

Oscar-winning costume designer Paul Tazewell says his creative process for “Wicked” began with abstract concepts, transforming the land of Oz through detailed costume design.

“That was where the idea of the spiral came into play for ‘Wicked,’ and the idea of the texture of mushrooms,” Tazewell said. “I am working to align those elements.”

The designer, who made history as the first Black man to win an Oscar for costume design, described how his approach focuses on character development.

“All of it is about telling stories through what my medium is, which is clothing, and making those characters visually more interesting or more specific,” Tazewell said.

His reimagining of the iconic witch’s hat demonstrates his innovative approach.

“It was a number of things. One was that there’s the moment when Glinda gives the hat to Elphaba, which is given as a joke,” Tazewell explained. “The way that John Chu wanted to start the film, he was describing it from the very beginning, that it would be, you would see it from a distance, and it would look like a mountain, and then you’d come in close and you realize it.”

The costume designer’s journey began in the Midwest.

“We would sleep outside and behind our house in Akron, Ohio, and dream about what our lives would be as adults,” Tazewell reflected. “It was being, becoming famous, and, you know, leading a glamorous life… but I didn’t know that it would give me the full, rich life that I’ve had, which has been being a costume designer, working with amazing talents, being able to tell really important stories.”

With this Oscar win, Tazewell expressed gratitude for the opportunity to inspire others.

“Being an inspiration for just all of the young people who find themselves in the world of costume and want to express themselves creatively. I mean, it’s exactly where I came from, as well developing as a creative person, going from wanting to be a performer to wanting to be a costume designer, and finding my power in that. I’m so grateful.”

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